Emma Twyford Performance Coaching

Climb smarter and progress with confidence.

When your beta is wacky - just like the UK weather! Looking forward to drier days 🔜

Badger attack (carrock fell) - 7a
Non dyno beta

The question often asked after we send a project is what’s next? Inevitably it was one that got asked after climbing Yma O Hyd (E10 7a) and one I had a hard time answering.

Sometimes a bit of time to relax and soak in the moment is incredibly important, it’s a time to reflect and enjoy the process that came with achievement. I recently wrote about some experiences for a book - once it comes out I might share some of what was written, it made me realise that intention on how we approach our fears is so important and that the small decisions we make can influence success.

I don’t believe much in New Year resolutions, if we are goal setting then it has to come with intention. Whether it is around a trip or the start of a new climbing season.

Outcomes:
Find a fun 8a Boulder to try
Return to my LPT project
Get more onsight trad climbing done this year
Return to Ogwen Crack
Work on my coaching and training plans

Process:
Be ok with falling multiple times on the same moves and not get overly frustrated but try to learn from it each time.
Tap into trying hard in my training so I can try hard outside
Train with intention - focus on the things I physically need to do to achieve these goals
Incorporate fall practice on these routes
Start off with some easy trad early in the season to get my head back into hanging around and placing gear.
Continuous professional cpd and redoing my website

In amongst all this I’ve been starting to coach more and write training plans. I’m so proud of the progress each of them have been making and I can’t wait to share more!
DM me if you’d like more info on either!

@ferniealpineresort and @whitewatermountainresort delivered some amazing memories to finish off 2025! Having not skied in over 6 years and my first time in powder it was both terrifying and exciting!

The last time I did some bad ligament damage on ice! As a climber it’s hard to take the risks but this definitely gave me the psych to do some more and keep building confidence in a sport I still love.

There’s something truly magical about skiing through the trees! Canadian Winter stole a little bit of my ❤️

What a year 2025 has been! My cup is full with so many adventures!

A trip to Spain with @caffinspain and then joined by @harry_widdowson! It didn’t start so well picking up an injury but this gave me time to DIY a lot of wedding stuff!

A stellar hen do in church stretton organised by the fab @rockandocean with a group of fab ladies!

Marrying my best friend and adventure buddy @harry_widdowson in front of so many people that we love followed by an outrageous party with some incredible DJ skills from Theo courtesy of @twwiddow 🙏

Watching @dringo.daz achieve his big goal of climbing Mission Impossible (E9) after following a training plan from me.

Achieving my hardest trad route to date with an ascent of Yma O Hyd (E10/5.14b/c)

Some magical trips in between and finally a fantastic Widdowson Christmas in Canada - it’s been a winter wonderland!

Thank you to friends, family and sponsors for all your support this year!

Wedding pics by @ray_wood 🙏

I wish everyone a Happy New Year - may 2026 bring you a cup full of joy!

Rebuilding my confidence after 5 years of no skiing and a bad fall on the second to last time I did 😬
I’m good at managing the fear climbing and knowing my challenge levels so it’s interesting gauging it whilst skiing! ⛷️ fun times nonetheless with the hubby @harry_widdowson 🫶

@whitewatermountainresort

Close but no cigar - the end of the trav feels hard but my sequence wasn’t dialled in so I’m pretty sure I can do it. I find the cave hard, a reason to get back there more than once a year I guess and tap into some try hard.

Hoping to get over whatever I have soon to get back there, full body aches and a sore throat are not fun.

A little beta vid to remind me what I’m doing and a fun day out with @dave_evans58 to keep the serotonin levels stocked up.

An easy comp wall bloc with @contactholds and a techy boulder with @coreclimbing holds!
Thank you for having me @bloc_climbing 🙏 and @jakrockmaster for the fun setting days!

Fun day on the comp wall @bloc_climbing with the master himself @jakrockmaster!
Go give them some love and let me know if you had a fave 😉

A fab weekend in the lakes with @han.smith.26 and @katie_max bouldering at Carrock fell (felt hard) and having a much needed spa day and laughs after a friend’s funeral on Thursday.

Boulders are Rouse’s wall: (6c+) felt hard if you can’t span between good hold
Fast cars and campervans (7a) also felt hard
Badger attack (7a) with non jumping beta 🙈
Katie smashing out the prow (7c)

Yma O Hyd (E10 7a),

I’d been meaning to write about this for the last week, but some sad news came in a few days later of a dear family friend Steve Murphy passing away from MND at the age of 62. Steve was genuinely one of the nicest guys I’ve ever met and I have lots of fond memories climbing with him, dad and Tony in the lakes. So I’m dedicating this send in honour of Steve’s memory.

As soon as I saw @caffinspain make the first ascent of this route I knew I wanted to try it and I agree with @ste_mcclure that it is one of the best climbs in the UK.

I had a couple of sessions last Autumn as the season and dryness came to a close, having done all the moves I knew it was possible. I trained over the Winter with a trip to Spain in mind to get really fit. Unfortunately in Margalef there was torrential rain and I damaged my meniscus/hamstring heel hooking. After some rehab from @staystrongphysiotherapy it slowly came back to strength and I used wedding planning as a distraction.

After we got married I got to checking out yma o hyd again which was going smoothly until the rain kicked in and the crux was wet again. In this time I climbed the start with with most of the gear in to build fitness and confidence. As the end of August came I was getting painfully close on the crux with belief that if I stuck a particular hold I could go to the top.
But the time pressure was on with heavy rain incoming. After 2 days of heavy rain in the mornings I wasn’t sure if the route would be dry but it was worth a punt!

As we arrived at the bottom there was some seepage run off and an unexpected wet hold before the crux. I changed my beta here slightly to avoid using the wet bit which worked well. First go I was cruising but fell off the last hard crux move, second go I hit the crimp at the end of the crux in disbelief. My elbow started going up and I power screamed through the next moves knowing I could make it pumped. Topping out was a surreal feeling!

Thanks to @dringo.daz and @herceramics for supportive belays! @harry_widdowson for the close send belay and Alex morris for the magical send belay!

📸 @ray_wood

I’ve been pretty quiet on here as of late. Busy with work, changing jobs and other life stresses has made it all feel full on recently.

When I’ve had the chance I’ve been putting everything I have left into this route! It’s the first time in a while I’ve gone all in with the risk of walking away empty handed. It is both exciting and nerve wracking as I’ve been getting exceptionally close and am well aware that it is a psychological battle now. With heavy rain incoming for a while that could make the crux wet my chances may be limited by weather but I’m hoping I get that chance again.

I’ve been enjoying finding my rhythm and trying hard! One thing is for sure this route climbs superbly and I’m having fun climbing on it. And if I walk away empty handed I know I’ve given it everything.

It isn’t goodbye, I’ll see you again! After 2.5 years of setting for @stronghold_uk as part of the in house team it’s time for me to move on to new adventure’s. I’ll be back as a freelancer though I’m sure! 👌

It’s been an absolute pleasure working with such a wonderful team! I’m going to miss that camaraderie and the fun we had for sure! To the stronghold customers, I’ve enjoyed setting for you - thanks for liking my outdoorsy/techy vibe! 🙏

My last set on the slab and groove, this ended being a satisfying banger to end on!

@dringo.daz successfully climbing Mission Impossible yesterday! Watching him on it this year it felt like it was just a matter of time and the crux hold staying dry!

Daz thought he was close last year but admitted that in reality he was quite a way off with the climbing up to there being too taxing!

When Daz approached me for a training plan over the Winter I was a little nervous. Although I have a degree in sports science and I knew the route he was also a mate. The doubts for me were what if it didn’t work? What if can always be a confidence killer.

We had a session together highlighting Darren’s weaknesses (some of which I already knew) and went from there. The first cycle of training was more generalised building up a good base of strength and fitness, the second cycle was more tailored to MI.

Darren was a fantastic client to have, responsive, asking questions where needed and understanding. He trained hard and reaped the rewards! I also learnt some valuable lessons a long the way, progression in your work is always a learning curve and in every facet I’m still learning!

Congrats once again Daz - from 8a sport and E7 on trad to 8b and E9! It’s been one hell of a journey 🤙

I’m aiming to take on a few people over the winter for training plans. Message me if you’re interested!

My first week back setting @stronghold_ldnf in a while! Whilst in Spain I’d did some damage to my meniscus/hamstring heel hooking whilst working a route!
We came back a week early so I could rehab it and rest up!
For me it is easier to manage the risk on a rope and I can still climb close to my limit but with bouldering I’m not 100% confident at the moment.
I can’t heel hook on my left leg, I’m not falling off out of control and steep terrain is difficult! But I’m gradually testing the waters and building up gradually.
Deciding on the right time to go back to work has been trick but I’m grateful for having a good team of setters to work with!
Thanks to @royclimbsalot @jakrockmaster @beidrik @tom_mcturk and @tommy_top_out for being a fantastic support crew this week! 🙏
Injuries suck but they happen, I’m lucky that this is one of very few climbing related injuries I’ve had. Onwards and upwards 👆

@dmm_wales @seatosummituk @frictionlabs @scarpa_uk @mountainbootuk @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @edelweiss_connection @climbskinspain @v12_outdoor

📸 fun 7a Búfal Bill at Margalwest

Coming home early from a trip is never an easy decision to make, the last couple of days have been a small emotional rollercoaster!

After a couple of goes up Místic (8c) things had been going well and I was making links, climbing on this felt fun and it has been one of few dry places this week but on one of the drier days I decided to check out Los Últimos Dia del Edén (8b+). I’d really enjoyed this route briefly last trip falling off at the top on my second session and second redpoint attempt, I never really returned to it though as I was keen on a different route that was more my anti style!

The route was a little wet low down but I took the clipstick with me to get the draws in ready for a hopeful dry day! After a successful go climbing quickly through the crux sequence I wanted to revisit it to refine my beta but mid heel hook it went crunch. I’m cautiously optimistic that it’s nothing serious and my range of movement is good, initial outlook is some minor meniscus issues.

I’m frustrated because I didn’t make any dumb decisions, I was well warmed up etc. The only thing I can think of is that due to the higher humidity the pockets felt a little slippy so I may have tried to engage my knee more than normal.

I could try to continue and lower the grade but I can’t be sure that it wouldn’t make it worse and it could knock my confidence. Trying to think about the bigger picture and my goal for this year is important, I’m very lucky that my partner @harry_widdowson is exceptionally understanding.

I feel positive though that the recovery should be strong, I’ve enjoyed some quality time with my partner and whilst it’s not great for climb in it’s nice to see more water than the last couple of years.

Thanks to @cal.eugenio for being so understanding of our situation 🙏

Being able to fight those mental setbacks and to believe in myself has always been something I’m proud of, this route signifies a moment just like that! We have the capability to push boundaries, to work in male dominated industries and to inspire each other not just today but every day! And to men who support us thank you, and to those who belittle us thank you for making us stronger!

#climblikeawoman #internationalwomensday
📸 @ray_wood

Day one in Spain! After an epic journey from North 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿 to Spain 🇪🇸 via the ferry from Dover > Calais!
Feels like a long journey but forgot how beautiful this way can be, slowing down and taking it all in! I’ve not had much time to be able to do that in recent years with the way my work schedule has gone.

@caffinspain was an absolute legend driving the whole way with one overnight stop.

We spent the first day at St. Llorenc de Montgai, having not been on rock or a rope much in recent months it felt a little rusty but happy to flash Celda de Castigo (7c+/8a) probably more on the 8a side than 7c+!

Caff put in a sterling effort on the on-sight! And then smashed it out second go! Always feels good to get the team send 👊

Swiftly followed by a team humbling on Condenada 7c/+ - a good reminder that not every route is in your style and that grades sometimes don’t mean much!

2024! A year of finding my feet again, relearning to balance work with life. Trips with my favourite person, time with our precious little fur baby, friends, family, a new and cute nephew! Sending 2 E9’s in the space of 2 weeks and finding an exciting project for 2025! Seeing friends like @caffinspain send his project, doing my RCI training and coaching Lucie outdoors on trad. To some fantastic news of @charlotte_da123 and @avalonsends2012 making the GB squad! It’s been another rollercoaster year!
2025 is set to be a big one! I can’t wait for it 🥰

Wishing you all good health and happiness in 2025! 🙏

#blockoftheweek @theprojectclimbingcentre! I’d had in mind setting a fun flowy mid/low range boulder.

My initial version was climbable but probably V6, harder than intended and whilst I flashed it no one else could pull off the ground (some strong boys too)! So I set about trying a few things - first extra feet and then flipping the start into a side pull with a knee bar! With this bit done and the final moves being just fine I tweaked the next move to just go into on single good rail instead of two together (one bad,one good).

Through teamwork and testing we finished with a boulder I was happy with and that worked for the level I wanted. Although I set it, testing as a group and having other input is an invaluable part of the process 🙏

Thanks to the crew @theprojectclimbingcentre for having me in to set!

Air time, fun times, kittens, hiking and family times!

I never wrote much about Canada as I spent the whole 2 weeks in survival mode fighting a cold! We went to a fantastic wedding, hiked around Talus with Harrys fam ( had some snow) hut also my lowest point of being sleep deprived and barely functional.
Some r n r with fostered kittens that Harry’s friends had and some fun mileage at Grassi Lakes.

Once I stopped fighting the desire to climb and just rolled with it we had a blast. Sometimes the body just needs time out to have an actual holiday 🙌 fun times with friends and family!

@patagoniaeurope @patagonia_climb @scarpa_uk @mountainbootuk @frictionlabs @seatosummituk @climbskinspain @edelweiss_connection @dmm_wales @v12_outdoor @patagonia @climbinflow

Tasty little @morphoholds boulder from todays set @stronghold_uk with @jakrockmaster and @tommy_top_out

Pathological (E7 6c) ❌

Sometimes we don’t succeed and I think it’s important to share these experiences too!

A few years back I tried the E6 to the right that shares the same start but I’d never been on the top arête, I couldn’t remember anything but it wouldn’t have been a pure onsight.

I haven’t been onsighting much this year, a little rusty it took me a while to settle. The rock is a little snappy with gear that is ok but never 100% trusted. I built nests of gear to settle my mind.

On the upper arête I got pumped placing some average gear and fell off shortly after unable to figure out what to do quickly enough. Caff’s attempt ended similarly, I had a second go and got a couple of moves further but it was hard to see what to do. In hindsight we probably should have taken a look as some of the gear and moves were less obvious to see, especially with no chalk. But at the grade it was too tempting not to try it with some unknown elements! I’m proud I tried, I gave it absolutely everything I had on both goes committing 110% even though I was a little scared at times. I still came away with a smile on my face and having had a good day even with no send.

📸 @caffinspain

On the 19th September Creative climbing are running a women’s setting workshop aimed at giving the basics on how to set and to give the confidence to go out and build on the skills learnt within this workshop.
It’s a great opportunity to learn from 2 ladies who have over a decades worth of experience each; one from a freelance perspective and one as a head setter for a group of successful climbing walls.
Limited spaces now available, to book a space or enquire for more info get in touch via climbingcreative@gmail.com

I’ll be back! Sometimes you get it right and sometimes you get close! I was ready to try and flash Heart of Stone (E7) but I fell just short of easier terrain! I fought till the very last moment accepting the ride might happen but 100% committed! It felt pretty dank and was unchalked after being soaking wet earlier in the week. I could feel myself sliding on the crux holds but I just wasn’t quite good enough at keeping it together! The beauty of climbing is finding something that inspires you, tying in ready to try (sometimes known and sometimes unknown) and to just give it everything you have both mentally and physically! The harmony between those two sides can be pretty special. Am I disappointed I didn’t flash it? A little, but you can’t predict every outcome and I walk away from this one knowing I tried hard! Not much more you can ask for!

Thanks to Darren for the good belay 🙏

📸 @caffinspain

Last Saturday I managed to climb Olwen (E9 6c), when I first looked at the forecast I thought there was a slim chance it might be ok but it turned out to be better than I expected.

Unlike MI this route could have serious consequences low down if you fell off and the small gear placed failed. The first time I tried to lead it in the heat was a pretty terrifying experience of slippy holds and over gripping. I was way too pumped and close to the edge of it going wrong. So the game of patience ensued for a dry day with cloud cover - not asking for much!

In September last year I had a quick look at this route but the end was wet, I returned a few more times only to find the route becoming more unclimbable due to seepage or seal pups being too close to the crag.
I thought this would be a good Winter/Spring venue but we’ve had one of the worst seasons this year. Summer came with expectation it would be too hot, but we’ve yet to really experience Summer.

A further return visit with Harriet and the first time I decided it was too hot and slippy to lead, I didn’t want a repeat terrifying experience. But on Saturday we returned and I made the decision it was time, it didn’t go super smooth, the gear didn’t go in quickly on the serious bit and a foothold crumbled on me just before the thank god gear but I held it together and arrived less pumped into the crux. From here, I could just try hard and have fun knowing that a fall could be big at the end but ok. I think part of the seriousness of this route is the crumbly nature of Rhoscolyn so I approached this route with caution and respect.

Girl vibes were on point with fantastic company from @h.riddles

Thanks @j__e__taylor for putting up such a cool route!

Mission Impossible (E9 7a/8b)

Although it’s given a trad grade the route is pretty safe with pegs in various states for pro. So it has more of a run out sport feel but it’s a bit of a mission to get to it!

Pretty psyched to finally knock this route off the project list, I’ve not had something test my perseverance like this in a while. I started really trying it in the last couple of years but the first year I wasn’t in the right headspace to try hard with my friends accident and last year it rained a lot so the chances to try were short lived!
Throw in the fact that a crux hold often seeps, trying it when it’s hot makes it feel nails and I’d turn up tired from route setting, this made it hard work. But this BTS grind leads to that moment of sweet success!

Last session I arrived at the crux to a wet hold, in anger I sussed out new beta to avoid the wet hold. It worked better for me, today we turned up to pissing rain and almost bailed but decided it was worth the effort! Today it climbed like a dream, it just flowed smoothly even with a question mark over the new method. Dealing with pressure is part of the game but I frikking love it! 🤙

A truly beautiful line from Neil Carson

Thanks @caffinspain for the belay and video!

Getting cooked in the sunshine! On first arrival everything felt wet from no sun/wind. Then it sort of dried but felt baking, I had excuses if I wanted them and my gut was telling me this would be a hard fought and somewhat terrifying experience in the sun.

But in my mind I broke it down, I could climb the start abs if it felt bad I could bail safely! It felt bad but by this point I was committed, on the dangerous runout I felt pretty terminal from slippy holds but somehow I recovered at the bad rest and got close to making it through the crux of Olwen (E9 6c). I’m convinced it’ll go easier in cooler/better cons. I’m proud I held it together and felt good enough to try anyway!

I could feel pretty frustrated that I’m close on al of my projects and it’s not quite equating……. But it’s also exciting that I’m close on all of them. It’s the nature of the game…… game on!

Ginger Ninja (E7 6b)

My first time at Craig y Clipiau and I’m keen to return for some onsighting missions.
We had just over 3 hours as I wanted to make sure Harry got a belay on Release the Hounds.

I’m glad I didn’t try to flash it, whilst the climbing isn’t super hard the gear is fiddly and some of the placements up high are a bit boomy! I TR’ed the head wall once and the whole thing another time but didn’t really suss the gear out fully.

On lead after the E5 start I left some kit I hadn’t used behind and had a bit of an epic forgetting how to place one of the wires before the crux (a nest of small RP’s or shallow kit) but the climbing went very smoothly.
I’d made a choice that I wanted it to feel a little spicy 🌶️ and not very dialled in, it was good to test my headspace and find that I’m 100% back to ME. I had fun, stayed calm and enjoyed the ride with a good amount of respect for a great route 👌 props to @calummuskett for the FA!

📸 @rise_and_summit

Belay and psych from the OG ginger ninja 🥷 @dave_evans58

A fantastic finish to the day after I sent Ginger Ninja (more musings soon)! @harry_widdowson sent release the hounds (7c) yesterday first go of the day after putting the clips in.

What was super cool to see was the relaxed and flowy style of climbing, managing to stay calm and in control it was just fun to watch 😊 proud to watch him levelling up his mindset in less than ideal conditions. 👌

@dave_evans58 providing the send belay and good company!

Work hard, train hard and then some serious TLC for the body. Been enjoying using the @renphofam thermacool massage gun after routesetting/training and climbing so much. The hot/cold plate and quietness are particular favourite points for me! 👍

Link in bio if you want to check it out.

Setting with the in-house crew @stronghold_ldnf last week! @tommy_top_out @michelle_y_ho @jakrockmaster
Some ❤️ and 🌶️ went into testing and tweaking to make some fun boulders!

That’s a wrap on Margalef! 3 weeks just flew by and after a long winter of not much rock it took about a week to find some rhythm and flow.

The video is a fantastic route I called Los Últimos Días del Edén (8b+) which I fell off the top hard move on my second redpoint. I only had one more session the next day and never quite made it back to finish it off. I was torn because I think this route suited me very well and that little ✅ would have been a nice send! But I made the decision to go back for a couple more sessions on Via del Quim (8b+) because I felt like this would give me more satisfaction to do as an anti style route. On our last day I’d learnt from my mistakes and I made it through my redpoint crux move but was too gassed from having to fight hard in the warmth not to slip out of the pockets. Do I wish I’d got the send? Of course! But I’m also proud of the way I fought and tried hard, I made a high point despite it being the last day. I also felt a lot stronger on the route which was satisfying to see after training around setting.
I shopped around some more and sampled other routes, tactically this maybe was a poor decision as I only had 4/5 sessions on the route this time. Maybe I’ll be back…….
One bonus was I managed to onsight DR Feelgood (8a) after trying los últimos twice, I was having to fight A muerte for the send.

For me though this trip was really made by getting some quality time with my fiancé @harry_widdowson and it was fantastic to see him flourish once again in Margalef! To see some interesting wildlife, go on beautiful walks ( turning the @patagonia black hole into a safety snack bum bag) and some fantastic conversations and too much vino with great people!

Back to the UK projects now……. Hopefully they’ll be dry soon! 🤞

Happy International Women’s day! I feel privileged to know some wonderful and wild women! Inspirational for many reasons (mostly nothing to do with climbing)! Each carving their own path with humbleness and grace.

Carry on being brave, powerful, bold, beautiful and vulnerable. I’m inspired by many more too, let’s carry on lifting each other up and celebrating successes.

A little clip from a great route called Heimdall (7c) in Margalef! Taking the first few days gently after a hard month of work setting. I love this style but also find it doesn’t particularly suit me well though I’m happy to try and get better! First day up here I numbed out putting the clips in and decided to stop so as not to risk a silly finger injury, today I did it first go of the day not remembering much beta which made for some full try hard between the big moves! Psyched to watch my partner making good links on it too with a fantastic mindset approach. 👍

This isn’t from yesterdays session but a pic from last year. When @caffinspain, @johnorrguiding and I turned up at the crag yesterday it was not sunny as forecast. It was raining and 80% humidity. A lot of LPT was still wet and the best you can hope for is small links. But that doesn’t mean it wasn’t worthwhile, I managed to make 2 big links on melancholie which gives me huge psych for the future proj once the top dries out. At the moment it’s all moves in the bank and regaining confidence on the opening sequence of melancholie which I find absolutely nails!
Sometimes, particularly in the UK you just have to show up, hope for the best and get on with it regardless!

What’s your toxic trait?

Mine is probably a comparison to past versions of myself, I expect a high performance every year which doesn’t always happen. Sometimes it sends me into a bit of a funk when I’m not climbing at my best.

Easier said than done to move past this but tips I’ve found useful:
1) I allow myself to be in a self pity party funk for a couple of days
2) remember to be kind to myself and assess the factors that are outside of my control and the ones I have the power to change that may be affecting my performance.
3) set confidence building goals
4) some years will be full of success and others not so much and that’s ok too.
5) change the language I’m using which tends to be pretty negative if I’m in a funk

📸 @tonimasbuchaca
fisheye (8c) during one of my best years of climbing

What motivates you? Are you doing something for the right reasons?

I’m sure we’ve all blurred the line at times and having extrinsic motivators as well as intrinsic ones is no bad thing.

An example of extrinsic has been wanting to win in competitions or a younger version of myself wanting validation from my peers. Although these aren’t the best motivators for obvious reasons as they can also be somewhat toxic they have pushed me to improve my performance, I’ve trained hard to improve my climbing.

But intrinsic motivators are the key to really continuing that push in a healthy way and also handling having our ego kicked at times. The route photographed is a classic example for me. I haven’t done it yet but the movement and the aesthetic beauty of the line draws me back. In a masochistic way I’m enjoying getting ass kicked by this route, I’ve learnt to deal with fear of falling (due to a hard time in life) and tapping into my try hard on this route but I wouldn’t continue to slog up to this route if I wasn’t intrinsically motivated by it. The same reason I’ve had success on other hard lines.
Tips for staying motivated:

1) set dream goals and realistic goals (big bang at one time was my dream goal and mind control + my trad climbs were my realistic goals)
2) analyse your performance to set process goals that focus on making you a better climber - this should be focusing on areas you need to improve not the stuff you’re already good at.
3) are you enjoying what you’re doing? Fun is a big motivator, if you’re crying or having a massive paddy is it worth that stress?
4) what draws you to that climb and what do you enjoy about it?
5) getting the challenge level right for you is so important! Too easy and it becomes boring, too hard and it feels unattainable.

Climb: Mission Impossible E9 7a, looking forward to trying hard again in dry weather!

At the weekend a very good friend of mine @katie_max put an event on called women of wales hosted by @indyclimbingwall
It touched on performance anxiety - something I’ve definitely had to learn to deal with over the years on routes that vary with consequential outcomes. When you know you can do the route it can come with certain pressure that you put upon yourself, the difficulty of a route or the no fall zones. Sometimes that success has come with ease and sometimes I’ve slipped through the complacency of thinking the route was in the bag - Strawberries and Chupacabra spring to mind. Some things that help me in dealing with this are:

1. Remember to breathe - different breath work can help you to stay calm/focus/increase adrenaline depending on what you need for the climb.

2. Be present on the route, don’t think about the sequence you may have just botched or think about the crux way ahead. If your mind is elsewhere it leads to mistakes.

3. Take away a positive from each session, even if you don’t succeed that time it’s all learning for a future send.

4. Remember to smile and have fun

5. Be kind to yourself, not everyday will be as you expect or hope it to be.

📸 @ray_wood on Do you know where your children are? E8 6c, Pembroke
A route that went first lead attempt but definitely had some question mark moves on whether I could succeed.

Went back today with @elinloiis for the team send of Bara Brith sit start 8a

Honestly felt battered and had two good goes early on hitting the toe hooks with my drago’s but slipping. After a switch to instincy VSR for the right foot my core was feeling battered and I started to go backwards. Time was becoming short as I needed to pack and leave for London. On Elin’s last go she just cruised up it almost out of nowhere. I was ready to leave unsure if another go was sensible until she asked and I said stuff it. Her send had got me psyched again and somehow I pulled it out of the bag 🤷‍♀️

So satisfying to get the team send again and to draw inspiration from a strong lady!

Bara brith crouch 7c+

Optimism paid off again after a rainy morning! Psyched to do this problem in a session and even better to get a team send with @elinloiis working together to find the best beta for both of us 😊

Motivation is high to get after it in 2024!

Looking forward to 2024 and I hope it brings happiness and positivity! 2023 has been a mixed one, good for my climbing but we’re living in a pretty messed up world!

The best part of 2023 has been working with this young lady @charlotte_da123. Despite everything that has been going on for her she has shown up time and again putting in the hard work training with no excuses. I am immensely proud of the way she carries herself as a person, and the hard work is paying off bouldering V9 indoors and her first 8a+. 💪 finishing off the year with 2nd in youth B at the YCS, I look forward to watching her grow in 2024. It’s been inspiring to watch her.

I guess my 2024 goal is to continue going down the coaching route and helping more young people if I can! 😊

@dmm_wales @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @frictionlabs @climbinflow @seatosummituk @mountainbootuk @climbskinspain @v12_outdoor @teambmc

Santa’s slab skills are on point! Second edition this time @stronghold_ldnf. Setting completed now until the New Year I hope everyone has a lovely break with loved ones. A time to appreciate those around you and help those in need. My go to charities are @sheltercharity and @crisis_uk 🙏 even a little support means a lot!

@scarpauk drago for the slab win!
@dmm_wales @frictionlabs @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @seatosummituk @v12_outdoor @climbskinspain @teambmc

Honestly the hardest slab climbing I’ve done when you can’t see your feet or get your hips close into the wall it feels desperate! Had to feel out the footholds! Getting into the Christmas spirit @stronghold_uk on one of their climbing challenges with a traverse slab in a Santa suit! If you were there did you manage it?

#santaslab #scarpauk #drago #footwork #slabissexy #stronghold #indoorclimbing #london #christmas

On the 24th and 25th of November @climbinflow will be running 3 different workshops: performance anxiety and confidence with myself, visualisation and route reading with @allegra_maguire and fear of falling with @rise_and_summit. Or you can book all 3 for the daytime.

Pictured is a new route called three little piggies (E6 6c) we did ground up with caff and dave. Dave succeeded with the FA, myself and caff did not succeed but had fun with the process of trying!

@thereachclimbingwall @bigrockclimbing

The last batch of macarons I made for @charlie.torrance wedding! These little things are so technical and tricky to make even though they look simple.
Filled with 4 different filllings: pistachio butter cream, chocolate ganache, gin and tonic buttercream and espresso buttercream. Proud of how these turned out 😊

#macarons #baking #macaronage #wedding

Last weekend one of my best friends FINALLY got married.

Getting to this day was no easy feat after @charlie.torrance had a major car accident suffering a brain injury and broken femurs. Many of us spoke about her incredible recovery, but also how she planned most of this wedding, whilst going back to work as a physio. Inspiration doesn’t always come from climbing 🥰

@terryshouse1 and @charlie.torrance this was a wonderful celebration of friendship and love, a perfect day! So nice to get to this chapter of life. It has been one hell of an emotional rollercoaster! Giving a speech that did justice without being heavy was a challenge!

Shoutout to @harry_widdowson and @herceramics for making Liams wonderful waistcoat!

@lenadrapella for some gorgeous 📸

This cute little fur ball came into our lives yesterday from @freshfieldsanimalrescue He’s called Pingu, super affectionate and a little nutter at the same time. He’s been hand reared by the rescue centre as his mum died with a litter of 3 kittens. Pingu was the last one, as he climbed up onto my arms and shoulder I knew he had a little bit of my heart already.

On our last weekend in Canada we did some amazing hiking around Skoki lodge! Myself and Harry tried to traverse some scree terrain onto Silvertip Mountain from Merlin lake. We aborted the mission, but on the way down Harry asked me to marry him.
I can’t think of a better/more supportive partner in crime. Last year was a tough one, it only made me more certain of our future together and this day was full of everything I love about the outdoors!

Really looking forward to being involved in this event! 🔥

Dew line 5.11c - what a stunning bit of climbing and pretty tricky for the grade, it reminds me of the UK - hard to on-sight routes.

In our first week I had a blast up at Acephale on-sighting Deal with it 5.12c and flashing Nemo 5.12d. It felt like a good start until the next few days were spent shivering, sweating and with full body aches plus a raging headache. Both myself and Harry went down with the same thing.

At the tail end of the illness I smashed a tylenol and set up a line on the path - honestly terrifying trying to climb a slab full of muddy shale on ledges with a decent run out. I paid dearly the next day by regressing in being ill.

After a reacquaintance I’ve been trying the Path on lead but yesterday got a bit emotional. It’s been pretty hot and I’ve had one good go but slipped out of the jam. The rest of the time has been spent slipping off the same entry move on a side pull after wicked gravity, I honestly find these moves harder than anything on the rest of the route due to being spanned out and insecure. It’s so low percentage that most of the time I slip off not placing my foot quite right. Yesterday it hit a point of not really being fun anymore and I cried, mostly due to frustration. I just want that chance to fight and get pumped. We have one more day left to maybe try again, but I need to seriously think about whether or not it’s the right choice. One things for sure though the route is an absolute stunner!

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ABOUT

About Emma Twyford

With over 30 years of climbing experience and a degree in Sports Science with Coaching, Emma combines elite knowledge of physical training with a strong focus on mindset and confidence. Supported by more than a decade of route setting and coaching, she brings expert insight into movement and technique. Emma offers in-person and online coaching alongside tailored training plans, delivered either face-to-face or remotely, using a holistic approach that supports long-term progression. Every programme begins with a detailed questionnaire to ensure training is fully personalised to each climber's needs and goals.

Qualifications:

RCI qualified

ML qualified

Sports Science with Coaching Degree

Personal Performance Highlights include:

- First British Woman to Climb 9a with an ascent of Big Bang

- First British team to climb Camilotto Pelissier (8a/+) in the Dolomites

- FFA of Yma O Hyd (E10 7a)

TESTIMONIAL

Testimonials

" I can't really put into words how important Emma has been in my climbing journey. Through her coaching, I've learned things about my climbing that I never even realised were holding me back, and I've seen huge progress in my technique as a result.

Emma has a brilliant way of highlighting areas I need to improve, always constructively and encouragingly, and she's helped me not only physically, but mentally too. As someone who has always been scared of falling, her patience and support have made such a difference in helping me work through that fear.

It's safe to say I wouldn't be climbing how I am now without Emma's guidance. I'm incredibly grateful for everything she's helped me achieve."

Amy Robins - Online Coaching

Get In Touch

Email: emma.helen.twyford@gmail.com

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